![]() ![]() There is very little to be done about adjusting the heat in this setup. Sometimes the substrate heaters don’t get hot enough to give enough warmth, and sometimes the trouble lamp can be just a tad too much heat when paired with the substrate heater. The aquarium can easily overheat in an instant unless there is an adjustable thermostat on your substrate heater. The drawback to using this setup is that airflow is less than optimal. A small dish of water with a sponge in it allows for optimal humidity. I’ve also used a small 2.5 gallon aquarium fitted with a reptile substrate heater, then a trouble lamp fitted with a red 25 watt party bulb for heat. Doing so allows me to know exactly what the temperature is where they are sleeping. I keep the thermometer right in the cage and placed it OVER the ceramic dish in which the chick(s) reside until they are fully feathered. I place a thermometer in the cage along with a small dish of water for a bit of humidity. I cover the cage with a towel when not feeding the chick leaving only an end open to allow air flow. I used to use a small cage with a swing-arm lamp or heat lamp fitted with a 25 watt red party bulb. There are many ways to set up and care for your hand-fed chicks. This prevents having to wait for the items to dry in between feedings AND keeps the chick out of harm’s way from bacteria. I keep several syringes and seed cups on hand and set them up for the next several feedings with all of the dry mix, then add the liquid fresh at each feeding.
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